The Least Explored: Hungduan Rice Terraces

There’s a hidden gem among the popular magnificence of this agricultural work of art which happened to be my hometown, and it is in Hungduan Rice Terraces. One just have to do a short hike along the rice paddies and you’ll be rewarded with a good, long, relaxing hot soak beside a cold, rushing river.

Growing up in Banaue, I often go out for long walks and just enjoy the cool fresh air. One of the best times in Banaue is when the rice fields are turning golden yellow, a sign that the rice grains are starting to ripen. During those times, one can smell the scent of fresh grains ready for harvest.

However, life caught up and I soon found myself working in Manila. I found a stable job that paid the bills, kept the food coming, and add up to savings. Living in the city has its rewards but I can’t deny how much I miss my hometown almost every day. I miss the serenity of cold and foggy mornings, where the silence is broken only by the sound of nature, birds and rushing river. This is the serenity that I seek whenever I get too stressed from work. I long for this beautiful place I call home.

But for now, with the advent of the pandemic that changed our whole lives, my plan to go home and reset my mind will have to wait.

The 5 Clusters of the Banaue Rice Terraces

The rice terraces were carved from the mountains 2,000 years ago by the Ifugaos. It was a way for the Ifugao people to sustain their daily need for food up until now. Every year, after their harvest, they celebrate Punnuk, a festival to thank their ancestors and deities for the bountiful harvest. This signals the end of the agricultural season and the beginning of a new one.

A lot has changed since then. After all, people need to adapt to the new world. Nonetheless, these rice terraces are still intact and are still a living cultural landscape of unparalleled beauty.

Banaue Rice Terraces is a collective term for the 5 clusters of rice terraces scattered in the Ifugao province. Only two of them are within Banaue, namely the Batad Rice Terraces and Bangaan Rice Terraces. The others are the Mayoyao Rice Terraces in Mayoyao, the Nagacadan Rice Terraces in Kiangan, and the Hungduan Rice Terraces also called Hapao Rice Terraces.

Batad Rice Terraces, the most popular among the 5 clusters, boasts of its amphitheater-like structure. Its natural design allows you to get a perfect view of the entire terraces from almost every angle.

The Bangaan Rice Terraces is a small and isolated village surrounded by rice paddies.

The Mayoyao Rice Terraces’ noticeable feature are houses scattered throughout its terraces. This is how the locals guard and proclaim ownership of their property.

The Nagacadan Rice Terraces features its ascending rows of terraces and huge boulders scattered throughout the rice field.

Lastly, one of the least explored and underrated cluster is  the Hungduan Rice Terraces.

Hungduan Rice Terraces – What Sets It Apart

Hungduan Rice Terraces is a UNESCO World Heritage just like the other 4 but it has its own identity. It’s somehow different – from the way its terraces were built, to how its people live their culture.  It even has its own climate.

The Hungduan Rice Terraces sits on a valley between two lush, green mountains. The villages surrounding it are Hapao Village, Baang Village is on the farthest end, while the highest site is Nungullunan Village.

Natural springs flow from the mountains and consequently irrigate the rice fields. These springs are also the primary water source of the locals. There’s a hidden beauty by the cold rushing river at the farthest end of the terraces. This is a gem that the other four clusters do not have – the Bogyah Hot Spring.

Bogyah Hot Spring – A Relaxing Reward

While feasting your eyes on beautiful mountain landscapes and the unique views while trekking magnificent rice terraces is already a reward, Bogyah Hot Spring is that typical “save the best for last” experience after hiking through rice terraces for 1 to 2 hours from the main road.

With its consistent 39-41°C temperature all year round, Bogyah Hot Spring makes a perfect spot to soak yourself into, a natural hot jacuzzi of sorts nestled beside the cold freezing waters of Hapao river. It beats all the amenities of a regular hydro spa! Jumping into its hot waters when the temperature is dropping from cool to cold is so relaxing.

The cold climate of Hungduan is wonderfully chilly particularly in the cold months of December to February, a rare treat for lowlanders who live in the city heat, something they’ll miss when they leave.

Bogyah Hot Spring is easily accessible, a must-visit when you go to Hungduan, a great way to end the day’s long hike. It’s exactly what you need to relax and release all your accumulated stress.

Hapao is not just about rice terraces and hot water springs. It offers one of the best places to relax in Banaue. The only noise that you’ll hear are the ones that nature provides – the sounds of birds, pigs, chickens, the rustling of the leaves, and the sound of rushing cold crystal clear waters of the river that divides the two mountains –  a mesmerizing orchestra created by nature. It’s a place where you can commune with nature and just enjoy its cold, peaceful surroundings away from the city noise, cocooned in the feeling of serenity even for just a day.

Blessings of the Muddy Road

For years, the Banaue Rice Terraces, especially the Batad Rice Terraces with its amphitheater-like structure, has always been the go-to for most foreign and local tourists. Even as a kid, I have always thought that Banaue and Batad are the only rice terraces worth visiting but I was wrong. After all, Batad’s beauty is one of a kind and it’s also the most advertised among the 5 clusters.

Not being a hotspot, being inaccessible with its muddy rugged road, and being less-visited has its benefits too. The Hungduan Rice Terraces retained most of its natural, primal beauty away from the influence of commercialization brought by tourism. However, with the development of a passable road, Hungduan Rice Terraces is now easily accessible. You can visit the place anytime you want, as long as you can secure your means of transport. Hiring/renting vehicles for transportation are now available when you are in Banaue.

So,  are you ready to explore this hidden beauty of Banaue?

Accommodations in Banaue – Where to Stay

Accommodations in Banaue are affordable. If you are the type who values class and great comfort then book a room at the Banaue Hotel. Situated near the center of Banaue, it is just a couple of kilometers away from the town center. Banaue Hotel provides easy access to most tourist destinations in the area like the Banaue Museum and the Tam-an Village, an outdoor-like museum that showcases the Banaue traditional huts and cultures. You can enjoy rustic ambience plus a priceless window scenery.

For those who are on a budget, there are many inns to choose from. One of them is the Hiwang Native House Inn located in Hiwang Village that sits between the boundary of Banaue and Hungduan. Hiwang Native House Inn is located at an elevation that gives you a view of the entire Banaue and its rice terraces on one side and a peak of the Hungduan Rice Terraces on the other.

Unlike traditional inns, you get to stay in a traditional Banaue native house that serves as their inn. They may not have some of the facilities that other hotels or inns like a swimming pool have but they sure make it up with the great view of both sunrise and sunset.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit these rice terraces are between April to September. By April, they have just finished planting their heirloom rice called Tinawon. The harvest ends in September. During these times, the rice terraces are a sight to behold. The emerald green rice terraces turns golden yellow towards the end of the season when the rice grains are starting to ripen. If you are lucky, you can even try harvesting rice grains with the locals.

So the next time you think of a place to escape into, visit Hungduan in Banaue. Away from the fast-paced city life, you can just sit looking at mountain rice terraces while sipping mountain coffee. Let yourself relax, experience every moment captivated by the serenity of the place. You can gaze at this seemingly unending beauty of nature. Hapao is no doubt, one of the best places to be.